Musings of a Wanderer

Mark Twain once said, “History doesn’t repeat itself, but it does rhyme” and sometimes it rhymes at such a close distance and in such a routine manner that we tend to miss or ignore it. Travelling on NH 144A for about 10 km  from Rajouri towards winter capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir, on west bank of river Tawi, a nondescript red sandstone building did  make me turn my head many a times but the attraction wasn’t strong enough that could make me stop and walk towards its almost ruined monumental gates. 
Recently while travelling towards Jammu, I decided to finally explore the building as someone had recently mentioned to me that this place is an old Mughal Serai used by caravans of Mughal emperors moving to and fro to Kashmir. The board at the shambled and ill maintained entrance proudly announces it to be a “State Protected Monument” and enumerates the historical significance of the place, however, the heaps of garbage, dilapidated walls, moth and creepers engulfing the architectural grandeur depicts the neglect and abandonment.
Mughals had always been fascinated by beauty of Kashmir since its annexation by Akbar in 1586. The royal visits were so frequent to the Vale that permanent forts and serais were constructed along the route for  protection, ease and comfort of caravans. The once famous ‘Mughal Road’ originated from Lahore and passed through Bhimbher, Naushera, Rajouri, Thanamandi, Bafliaz before crossing over Pir Panjal ranges from Peer ki Gali(Pir Panjal Pass) into alluring slade of Kashmir near Shopian. The road on Indian side has recently been revived and in summers, connects Poonch and Rajouri districts to Valley of Kashmir. In 1627, in order to regain his deteriorating health, Emperor Jehangir accompanied with his favourite queen, Nur Jehan, planned a visit to Kabul and Kashmir. On the return journey, when caravan was halting  near Rajouri, on 28 October,  due to poor health, Jehnagir left for heavenly abode. Fearing revolt and chaos in the capital, Noor Jehan decided not to divulge the news to public when the royal caravan was enroute. In order to preserve the body from immediate decay, the innards and entrails of the Emperor were removed and buried in the serai where the royal entourage was halting. Interestingly, the place is now named ‘Chingus’, which means ‘intestines’ in Persian. The body was embalmed and then the mortal remains were mounted and carried in the royal palanquin on an elephant to give the semblance of normalcy. The Emperor was finally laid to rest at Shahdra Bagh in Lahore. Truly Jehangir is known as an ‘Emperor with Two Tombs’.